Fabric & quality
What Does GSM Mean in a T-Shirt? (And Is 240 GSM Good?)
GSM stands for grams per square metre. It measures fabric weight: the higher the GSM, the thicker and heavier the cotton. Lightweight tees are usually around 140 to 160 GSM, while heavyweight tees are generally 220 GSM or more.
What GSM measures
GSM is a weight measurement. A square metre of 240 GSM fabric weighs 240 grams, so it is noticeably thicker and more structured than a 160 GSM tee.
Weight is useful but not a complete quality guide. Yarn quality (such as combed cotton), knit tightness, stitching and finishing all affect how a tee feels and lasts.
GSM ranges at a glance
- Around 140 to 160 GSM: light, breathable, drapes close to the body.
- Around 180 to 200 GSM: midweight, a common premium everyday tee.
- 220 GSM and above: heavyweight, thick, opaque and structured.
Is 240 GSM good for a t-shirt?
Yes. 240 GSM is heavyweight: thick, structured and opaque with a premium feel. It holds an oversized shape better than lighter fabric and suits layering, though it can feel warm in peak summer heat.
| Advantages | Trade-offs |
|---|---|
| Holds the oversized drop-shoulder shape | Warmer than lightweight tees in peak summer |
| Opaque, with no see-through look | Heavier on the hanger and in the wash |
| Feels premium and durable | Costs more to make than a 160 GSM tee |
| Works well as a layering base | Takes slightly longer to dry |
In practice, 240 GSM suits indoor, air-conditioned and cooler-season wear very well. In hot, humid weather, some people prefer a lighter tee for long hours outdoors. For colder months, see oversized t-shirt winter outfits.
What Zentoku uses
Every Zentoku tee, in The Armory and the Forbidden drop, is made from 100% 240 GSM combed cotton, pre-shrunk so it keeps its fit after washing. To judge any tee before you buy, use the checklist in How to tell if a t-shirt is good quality.
